Sowing instructions

Here are our growing instructions in English in alphabetical order.
If you have any questions, just get in touch with us at kontakt@growgreens.de.

Cultivation

In order to be able to harvest in the same year, you should grow the plants indoors from February onwards. First place the seeds in warm water for 24 hours to increase their germination capacity and then plant them about one centimetre deep in moist coconut substrate or organic vegetable soil. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This keeps the substrate ventilated and protects it from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius and keep the substrate moist but not wet. When the first seedlings appear after two to three weeks, the foil can be removed. As soon as the seedlings are too dense in the propagator, they should be pricked out and transplanted individually into pots. When it gets warmer outdoors, you can put the pots outside from time to time during the day so that the seedlings get used to being outdoors. After the ice-harvest, you can finally transplant the plants into the bed.

Location

Choose a sunny location sheltered from the wind and enrich the planting hole with compost to provide nutrients. Loosen the soil and leave at least 90 centimetres between individual plants.

Care

Make sure to water the plant regularly so that the soil does not dry out, but at the same time does not become waterlogged. In addition, you should support the plant repeatedly with organic vegetable fertiliser during its main growth phase in summer.

In winter

In a wind-protected place, the plants are frost-resistant up to -10° Celsius. Nevertheless, the leaf scapes should be tied together after harvesting is complete or, alternatively, the leaves should be removed. Then the plant can be hidden under an upturned basket with a hand-high layer of dry straw or leaves around its edge. Alternatively, the rhizomes can be dug up and placed in a container with moist sand to overwinter in a room that is as cool as possible but frost-free. From April onwards, the cover can be removed or the rhizomes can be planted out again.

Cultivation

You can plant the plants directly in the bed from April to September. The soil should ideally be loosened for this purpose, and a little compost can also be worked in. Make seed furrows for sowing, which should be about one centimetre deep. Then sow the seeds in the grooves and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 20 centimetres between individual rows. During April it is also advisable to cover the planting site with fleece.

Location

Sow arugula in a sunny location with a moist, humus-rich soil.

Care

If the soil has been supplied with nutrients before sowing, further fertilisation is not necessary. The most important thing is to provide the rocket with sufficient water throughout. In addition, the plant is happy if the soil is regularly loosened and freed from weeds.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

You can plant the plants directly in the bed from April to September. The soil should ideally be loosened for this purpose, and a little compost can also be worked in. Make seed furrows for sowing, which should be about one centimetre deep. Then sow the seeds in the grooves and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 20 centimetres between individual rows. During April it is also advisable to cover the planting site with fleece.

Location

Sow arugula in a sunny location with a moist, humus-rich soil.

Care

If the soil has been supplied with nutrients before sowing, further fertilisation is not necessary. The most important thing is to provide the rocket with sufficient water throughout. In addition, the plant is happy if the soil is regularly loosened and freed from weeds.

In winter

Wild rocket is perennial and hardy.

Cultivation

In order to be able to harvest in the same year, you should grow the plants indoors from February onwards. Plant the seeds about one centimetre deep in moist coco substrate or organic vegetable soil. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This keeps the substrate ventilated and protects it from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the substrate moist but not wet. When the first seedlings appear after two to four weeks, the cover of the propagator can be removed. As soon as they have formed the first leaves, the seedlings should be pricked out and transplanted individually into pots. When it gets warmer outdoors, you can move the pots outside from time to time during the day so that the seedlings get used to being outdoors. After the ice-harvests, you can transplant the plants into the bed about 60 centimetres apart or keep them in larger 10-litre pots.

Location

Choose a sunny, wind-protected location, ideally on a south-facing house wall that can provide additional warmth. The soil should be loose and rich in nutrients, so it is advisable to work compost into it before planting.

Care

Give the plants a climbing aid in the pot or bed right from the start. Also ensure a regular supply of water, but avoid waterlogging at all costs. In addition, you can help the plants several times with a small supply of organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Because of their sensitivity to frost, aubergines are usually cultivated as annuals and resown every year.

Cultivation

Indoors, you can start growing basil in March. The seed is a light germinator. Scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press the seeds lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. Depending on the growing temperature, the first seedlings will appear after one to two weeks. Plants that have been grown indoors can be transplanted outdoors with the entire root ball from May onwards, when no more night frost is expected, in order to avoid stressing the plant. From this time onwards, the plants can also be sown directly in the bed.

Location

Basil prefers a warm, sunny to semi-shady location in a nutrient-rich soil that is as water-permeable as possible.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Indoors, you can start growing basil in March. The seed is a light germinator. Scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press the seeds lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. Depending on the growing temperature, the first seedlings will appear after one to two weeks. Plants that have been grown indoors can be transplanted outdoors with the entire root ball from May onwards, when no more night frost is expected, in order to avoid stressing the plant. From this time onwards, the plants can also be sown directly in the bed.

Location

Basil prefers a warm, sunny to semi-shady location in a nutrient-rich soil that is as water-permeable as possible.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Indoors, you can start growing basil in March. The seed is a light germinator. Scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press the seeds lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. Depending on the growing temperature, the first seedlings will appear after one to two weeks. Plants that have been grown indoors can be transplanted outdoors with the entire root ball from May onwards, when no more night frost is expected, in order to avoid stressing the plant. From this time onwards, the plants can also be sown directly in the bed.

Location

Basil prefers a warm, sunny to semi-shady location in a nutrient-rich soil that is as water-permeable as possible.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Bush beans can be grown in advance from the end of April by planting about five seeds each in a pot of about ten centimeters in depth of two centimeters. Then the seeds should be kept moist, preferably at a temperature of 20 degrees. Once the icemen have passed, the seedlings can then be planted outdoors. If you want to sow the seeds directly, this is possible between May and July. It is recommended to sow five seeds at a time at a depth of three centimeters. Between the eyries (and also pre-sown seedlings) should be a distance of 30 centimeters.

Location

Bush beans are relatively unpretentious. They can be planted in a sunny place, although if the soil is warm enough, a semi-shaded place will do.

Care

For the young plants it is recommended to mound them to give them a firm stand. Then, from flowering, the plant needs the most water. Make sure that the soil does not dry out during this period. Also, loosen the soil regularly to give no chance to the pupae of the root fly.

In winter

Beans are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

In principle, these beans can be sown directly outdoors after the Ice Saints. To do this, make seed grooves with a depth of three to four centimetres at a distance of about 35 centimetres. One seed can then be sown every ten centimetres. Then cover the grooves with soil and water the seeds. The seeds should germinate after one to two weeks. Otherwise, the beans can also be grown in small pots with two seeds each and planted out from mid-June.

Location

The beans prefer a sunny location where they are also protected from the wind. The soil should be humus-rich and loose. Because of their possible root length of up to one and a half metres, the soil should also be deep.

Care

It is advisable to mound the young plants to give them a firm footing. Especially in the hot summer months, the plants should also be watered sufficiently. It is also advisable to loosen the soil regularly. To ensure the formation of dense stands, the bed should be kept free of weeds, especially in the first few weeks.

In winter

Beans are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

From mid-April, the seeds can be grown in advance. To do this, one seed at a time should be planted in a small seedling pot filled with soil. Then keep the soil moist, but prevent the formation of waterlogging. In addition, aim for a temperature of about 20 degrees. Then the seeds should germinate soon, so that the seedlings can be planted outdoors as soon as frost is no longer to fear.

Location

Fire beans are quite undemanding in terms of location, although they prefer a nutrient-rich, loose soil. A sunny as well as a half-shady place is possible as a planting place. The individual plants should also have a distance of about 30 centimeters from each other.

Care

As a climbing plant, fire beans need a climbing aid from the beginning, on which they can find a good hold. Especially at high temperatures, but also in general, care should be taken to always supply the plants with water. If the fire bean is to bloom particularly splendidly, withered flowers must be removed regularly. If the focus is on a rich harvest, withered flowers should be left on the plant so that not too much energy goes into the formation of new flowers.

In winter

Beans are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

From mid-April, the seeds can be grown in advance. To do this, one seed at a time should be planted in a small seedling pot filled with soil. Then keep the soil moist, but prevent the formation of waterlogging. In addition, aim for a temperature of about 20 degrees. Then the seeds should germinate soon, so that the seedlings can be planted outdoors as soon as frost is no longer to fear.

Location

Kidney beans prefer a sunny place, protected from the wind. In addition, they like a nutrient-rich, loose soil. Between the plants you should pay attention to a distance of about 15 centimeters.

Care

To have a firm stand, it is recommended to slightly pile up the young plants in the bed. Since the plants do not grow too high, this should be sufficient. However, if the beans do grow very tall, subsequent support may be beneficial. Be careful not to let the soil dry out (especially during long dry periods), but also do not keep it too moist (waterlogging).

In winter

Beans are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

Meter beans can be grown in advance from the end of April by planting about five seeds each in a pot of about ten centimeters in depth of about two to three centimeters. Then the seeds should be kept moist, preferably at a temperature of 20 degrees. Once the icemen have passed, the seedlings can then be planted outdoors. If you want to sow the seeds directly, this is possible between May and July. It is recommended to sow three seeds at a time at a depth of three centimeters. Between the eyries (and also pre-sown seedlings) should be a distance of about 40 centimeters.

Location

Meter beans like loose soil, which should be as deep as possible and rich in nutrients. In addition, choose a place that is protected from the wind. In addition, a sunny (but at least partial shade) location would be advantageous.

Care

With meter beans should pay attention to adequate watering. Thus, the soil should always be kept moist, avoiding waterlogging at all costs. In addition, they need a climbing aid. At the beginning, it is recommended to bring the shoots to the climbing aid or to attach them to it.

In winter

Beans are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

Beetroot can be sown in spring from mid-April to early June. So that the hard seeds germinate more quickly, soak them overnight in room-warm water before sowing. Loosen the soil as finely as possible, work in some compost and make seed furrows about two centimetres deep, in which you sow the seeds at intervals of about ten centimetres and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 25 centimetres between the rows.

Location

Choose a sunny location sheltered from the wind.

Care

Beetroot grows almost everywhere and is quite undemanding. Water constantly so that the deep roots also get water. Avoid waterlogging, however. As soon as the first tubers form, diluted comfrey or nettle manure can be added to the water at intervals of two to three weeks or the plant can be supported with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Before the first frost you should take all remaining tubers out of the ground. They can be stored for a long time in boxes filled with sand. In the coming spring, the beds are then freshly sown.

Cultivation

Beetroot can be sown in spring from mid-April to early June. So that the hard seeds germinate more quickly, soak them overnight in room-warm water before sowing. Loosen the soil as finely as possible, work in some compost and make seed furrows about two centimetres deep, in which you sow the seeds at intervals of about ten centimetres and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 25 centimetres between the rows.

Location

Choose a sunny location sheltered from the wind.

Care

Beetroot grows almost everywhere and is quite undemanding. Water constantly so that the deep roots also get water. Avoid waterlogging, however. As soon as the first tubers form, diluted comfrey or nettle manure can be added to the water at intervals of two to three weeks or the plant can be supported with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Before the first frost you should take all remaining tubers out of the ground. They can be stored for a long time in boxes filled with sand. In the coming spring, the beds are then freshly sown.

Cultivation

Beetroot can be sown in spring from mid-April to early June. So that the hard seeds germinate more quickly, soak them overnight in room-warm water before sowing. Loosen the soil as finely as possible, work in some compost and make seed furrows about two centimetres deep, in which you sow the seeds at intervals of about ten centimetres and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 25 centimetres between the rows.

Location

Choose a sunny location sheltered from the wind.

Care

Beetroot grows almost everywhere and is quite undemanding. Water constantly so that the deep roots also get water. Avoid waterlogging, however. As soon as the first tubers form, diluted comfrey or nettle manure can be added to the water at intervals of two to three weeks or the plant can be supported with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Before the first frost you should take all remaining tubers out of the ground. They can be stored for a long time in boxes filled with sand. In the coming spring, the beds are then freshly sown.

Cultivation

You can sow black cumin directly in the bed in spring. To do this, make grooves with a depth of one to two centimetres at a distance of 25 centimetres. Sow the seeds in the grooves and cover them with soil. Water the seeds and keep the soil moist. In any case, prevent waterlogging. Until germination after two to three weeks, you can protect the seeds with a fleece that both keeps out the cold and preserves the moisture of the soil a little longer. As soon as the young plants are strong enough, you can separate them at a distance of 20 centimetres from each other.

Location

Black cumin prefers a sunny location in a humus-rich and well-drained soil.

Care

Black cumin does not need too much water. Just make sure to keep the soil slightly moist. However, take care to avoid waterlogging. Fertilising is not necessary, but you should keep the soil loose and free of weeds.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Between February and March can begin to pre-grow the black-eyed susan. For this purpose, seed pots with a diameter of ten to twelve centimeters are suitable. These are filled with soil, in which two to five seeds are then distributed. The seeds should then be covered with about one centimeter of soil and subsequently kept moist. At temperatures of 20 degrees, the seeds should then germinate after a few weeks. As soon as the first plantlets have formed, they should be grown in a pot of no more than three. Towards the end of May, the plants can then go outdoors.

Location

Black-eyed Susan feels most comfortable in a sunny place, sheltered from the wind and, if possible, nice and warm. The soil should be loose and rich in humus. When planting in a flower pot, nutrient-rich potting soil should be used accordingly. But whether outdoors or in a pot, in any case, this climbing plant needs a climbing support to develop its full glory.

Care

Water the black-eyed susan regularly to keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging. If necessary, the plant can also be fertilized, but normally it is characterized by rapid growth even so. In the beginning, the young shoots can also be attached to the respective climbing aid to ensure an initial hold. Unwanted shoots can be trimmed without any problems.

In winter

Theoretically, black-eyed susan can be overwintered, but this requires a relatively high effort. Since in the second year the flowering is often also reduced, it is usually kept as an annual. This is also favored by its rapid growth.

Cultivation

Borage can be grown indoors from March onwards. Sow three seeds at a time about three centimetres deep in moist coco substrate or organic herb soil. Cover the propagation container with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The first seedlings should appear after one to two weeks. The pre-cultivated plants can then be planted outdoors from May, when no more night frost is expected. Direct sowing in the open is possible from April. To do this, make a seed furrow with a depth of about two centimetres, in which you sow three seeds at a time at a distance of about 40 centimetres and then cover them with soil. The spacing of 40 centimetres should also be maintained when planting out pre-picked plants.

Location

Choose a sunny to semi-shady spot for borage, preferably sheltered from the wind to prevent the plant from bending. Ideally, the soil should be rich in nutrients and have a good water retention capacity.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist and free of weeds. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out, but avoid waterlogging. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

You can grow broccoli indoors from February onwards. Place the seeds about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Water the seeds carefully and place them in a bright place at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the seeds moist, but avoid waterlogging. The first seedlings will appear after one to two weeks. If they have not already been grown in individual pots, the seedlings can be separated after another four weeks. In mid-April, the plants can then be planted outdoors, each half a metre apart.

Location

Plant broccoli in a sunny, wind-protected location. The soil should be deep and rich in nutrients. Therefore, it should be loosened before sowing and compost should be added.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular weeding and loosening of the surrounding soil is also advisable. Feed the plants with organic vegetable fertiliser about six weeks after planting.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants from January to March in a sheltered cold frame with a fleece cover for frosty nights or in pots on a sunny windowsill. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can move outdoors from the end of May, when no more night frosts can occur. Plant them 40 to 50 centimetres apart, so that the roots are covered with about one centimetre of soil, and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a heavy grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill in March. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved outdoors from mid-April. Plant them 50 centimetres apart so that the root base is covered with about one centimetre of soil and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a heavy grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Brussels sprouts are biennial, but are usually better cultivated as annuals. If the florets are not harvested, they will sprout after overwintering in spring and bear flowers in summer.

Cultivation

Since melons are not accustomed to our native climate, they need to be grown in advance, otherwise they would be late to form their fruits. To do this, it is recommended to plant three seeds together two centimeters deep into the soil. In the course, the soil should then be kept moist at all times. After about 10 days, the first cotyledons should form above the soil and the first tender roots below the soil. After a few weeks, the two weaker plantlets can then be removed in order to transplant the best-formed specimen. However, you should wait until the end of May to be safe from frost. This would immediately destroy the plants. Even temperatures below 12 degrees can stall the growth of melons.

Location

For growth melons need a lot of light. However, a full sun location is not yet recommended, especially for young plants. Also, make sure to give the individual plants plenty of space (distance of about one meter).

Care

Cantaloupe melons like to water with temperate water (at least air temperature). The soil should always be kept moist, but waterlogging should be avoided at all costs, so that the roots do not rot. Since melons are climbing plants, it may be advisable to use climbing aids. In addition, for the sake of size and taste should not grow more than six fruits per side shoot. To prevent mold, you should also make sure that the fruits do not have direct contact with moist soil. Fertilize the melons approximately every two weeks.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Sow early carrots between March and July and late carrots between mid-May and July. Ensure that the soil is well loosened and the seedbed is lined with compost right from the start. It is best to sow about two centimetres deep in rows with a row spacing of at least 30 centimetres and four centimetres between the individual roots. The first seeds should germinate after two to four weeks.

Location

Carrots grow very well in sandy-loamy, loose and stone-free soil. To develop optimally, carrots need sufficient space. Therefore, you should thin out closely sown roots by hand. Carrots benefit especially from mixed crops with beans, peas, onions, garlic, lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, courgettes, chard and spinach. Carrots should not be grown again on the same bed for at least three years. As they grow well on beds with little weed pressure, previous year's crops such as potatoes or a green manure are optimal. Onions as planting partners have the added advantage that their smell deters the notorious carrot fly.

Care

Ensure adequate watering. As soon as the heads of the carrots peek out of the soil, pile them up to prevent them from turning green.

In winter

Although the carrot is a biennial, it is only cultivated as an annual in the garden.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants indoors from the end of February. Place the seeds about half a centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Water the seeds carefully and place them in a bright place at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the seeds moist, but avoid waterlogging. The first seedlings may appear after just one week. After about another three weeks, the seedlings can be separated, unless they have already been grown in individual pots. In mid-April, the plants can then be planted outdoors, each half a metre apart.

Location

Plant Romanesco in a sunny location. The soil should be deep and rich in nutrients, which is why you should loosen it two weeks before planting and work in compost. A high water retention capacity would also be preferable.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil are also advisable. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and up to four weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done every year.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants indoors from mid-February. Place the seeds about half a centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Water the seeds carefully and place them in a bright place at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the seeds moist, but avoid waterlogging. The first seedlings will appear after one to two weeks. If they have not already been grown in individual pots, the seedlings can be separated as soon as they have developed the first strong leaves. From April onwards, the plants can be planted outdoors at intervals of half a metre.

Location

Plant cauliflowers in a sunny to semi-shady location. The soil should be deep and rich in nutrients, which is why you should loosen it before planting and work in compost. A high water retention capacity would also be preferable.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil are also advisable. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest. To prevent the white heads from discolouring (which has no other negative effect on the cauliflower), you can cover them with bent inner leaves.

In winter

Sowing should be done every year.

Cultivation

Due to its slow growth, it is advisable to grow celery from March onwards. It is important to cover the seeds only very lightly with soil, as celery is a light germinator. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright place at about 20°C. The seedlings can then be pricked out. The young plants can then be pricked out as soon as they have formed the first leaves. They can then continue to grow until they are planted in the bed in May (preferably when there is no more frost). To prepare them for this, they can be put outside for a few hours during the day in the days before. When planting, make sure not to plant the celery too deep and leave a space of about 40 centimetres between each seedling.

Location

As a heavy grower, celery prefers a nutrient-rich soil with a high water storage capacity in a sunny to semi-shady location, ideally in a sheltered position.

Care

As celery prefers a loose, weed-free soil, care should be taken to ensure such a soil. In addition, continuous watering is essential. Shortly after planting and in summer, the plants can be fertilised once with organic vegetable fertiliser. The celery can also be watered with salt water (5-10g per 10L). However, be careful not to water other plants with this water, as they usually do not tolerate salty water. Two to three weeks before harvesting, the perennials can be wrapped with cardboard, for example. The resulting light deprivation causes the stems to take on a paler colour and become more tender.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill in March. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved outdoors from mid-April. Plant them 40 centimetres apart so that the roots are covered with about one centimetre of soil and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a medium grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular watering. Water especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill in March. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved outdoors from mid-April. Plant them 40 centimetres apart so that the roots are covered with about one centimetre of soil and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a medium grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular watering. Water especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds between January and March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds between January and March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds between January and March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds between January and March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds between January and March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds between January and March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

Chinese cabbage can be sown directly in the bed from the end of June. The seeds should be sown at a depth of about three centimetres. There should be a distance of about 35 centimetres between the individual seeds in each direction. With regular watering and fertilisation and temperatures between 20 and 25 degrees, the first seedlings should appear after two to three weeks.

Location

As a heavy grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with a good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil is also recommended. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

Pak choi can be grown in seed pots towards the end of April. Make sure that the seeds are about two centimetres deep. The soil should then always be kept moist without being wet. Fertilisation is not yet necessary. In addition, the temperature should be around 20 degrees. The seeds should germinate within a week. From July onwards, the plants can be transplanted into the bed with a spacing of about 30 centimetres.

Location

As a heavy grower, the plant thrives best in loose, nutrient-rich soil with a good water retention capacity in a sunny to semi-shady spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular watering. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil is also recommended. If you work compost into the bed before planting, further fertilising can be dispensed with.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

Unlike most herbs, chives are dark and cold germinators. From February you can plant the seeds about one to two centimetres deep in moist coco substrate or organic herb soil. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and cool place at 12 to 18°. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The first seedlings will appear after about two weeks. From April onwards, the plants can then be placed outdoors, each 30 centimetres apart. From this time onwards, direct sowing in the open is also possible. However, make sure that the soil is free of frost.

Location

Chives like sunny to semi-shady locations in a nutrient-rich soil that is as loose and moist as possible.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser. In addition, loosen the soil regularly and remove weeds.

In winter

Chives can tolerate cold temperatures down to -25 °C without any problems. You should cut the plant back completely in autumn and cover it with a thick layer of mulch or brushwood. Further precautions are not necessary. In spring, the chives will sprout again. Chives can also overwinter outdoors in a pot. Cut them back before the first frost and cover the substrate with mulch. Chives kept indoors also need a rest period in winter and are best overwintered in a bright but cool room. Continue to water moderately on frost-free days.

Cultivation

Cilantro can be grown indoors from the end of February. Scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and cover with another centimetre of substrate. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright spot at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. After two to three weeks the first seedlings will appear. The pre-pulled plants can be transplanted outdoors from the end of April with a row spacing of 25 centimetres. Keep a distance of 15 centimetres between the individual plants. Alternatively, you can sow coriander directly in the bed in one centimetre deep seed furrows from April onwards.

Location

A sunny to semi-shady location that is protected from the wind is suitable for coriander. The soil should be as nutrient-rich and well-drained as possible.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Loosen the soil regularly and remove weeds.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Pre-growing indoors should only be started in mid-April so that the plants do not grow too large before being planted outdoors. Place the seeds about two centimetres deep in a pot that you fill only halfway with moist coco substrate or organic vegetable soil. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This keeps the substrate ventilated and protects it from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the substrate moist but not wet. Germination usually occurs after one to two weeks. As soon as the first leaves of the seedling grow clearly over the edge of the pot, fill the pot with additional soil. In this way the seedling forms so-called adventitious roots and takes root better. After the Ice Saints, the plants can be placed in a large pot with a layer of compost or 50 centimetres apart in the garden bed.

Location

The plant likes a warm and sunny location, but preferably sheltered from the wind, with a loose and nutrient-rich soil.

Care

Cucumbers quickly become bitter in dry conditions. Water regularly, but avoid waterlogging. Cucumbers normally grow on the ground, but for space reasons a strong trellis is recommended. Watch out for slugs, which like to eat the young cucumber seedlings. Two weeks after flowering, the first salad cucumbers are ready for harvesting. They are tastiest when they have not yet reached the size of typical supermarket cucumbers. Be sure to remove overripe yellow fruits so as not to weaken the plant.

In winter

Cucumbers are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

Pre-growing indoors should only be started in mid-April so that the plants do not grow too large before being planted outdoors. Place the seeds about two centimetres deep in a pot that you fill only halfway with moist coco substrate or organic vegetable soil. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This keeps the substrate ventilated and protects it from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the substrate moist but not wet. Germination usually occurs after one to two weeks. As soon as the first leaves of the seedling grow clearly over the edge of the pot, fill the pot with additional soil. In this way the seedling forms so-called adventitious roots and takes root better. After the Ice Saints, the plants can be placed in a large pot with a layer of compost or 50 centimetres apart in the garden bed.

Location

The plant likes a warm and sunny location, but preferably sheltered from the wind, with a loose and nutrient-rich soil.

Care

Cucumbers quickly become bitter in dry conditions. Water regularly, but avoid waterlogging. Cucumbers normally grow on the ground, but for space reasons a strong trellis is recommended. Watch out for slugs, which like to eat the young cucumber seedlings. Two weeks after flowering, the first salad cucumbers are ready for harvesting. They are tastiest when they have not yet reached the size of typical supermarket cucumbers. Be sure to remove overripe yellow fruits so as not to weaken the plant.

In winter

Cucumbers are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

Cumin can be grown indoors from the end of February. Scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press lightly. Cover the container with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright spot at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. After three weeks the first seedlings will appear. The pre-pulled plants can be transplanted outdoors from May onwards with a row spacing of 30 centimetres. Keep a distance of 15 centimetres between the individual plants. Alternatively, you can sow caraway directly in the bed from April onwards in fine seed furrows that are only lightly covered to prevent the seeds from blowing away.

Location

Grow in a sunny to semi-shady spot where the soil is nutrient-rich and deep.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser.

In winter

Cumin is quite robust and winter-hardy. Nevertheless, it is advisable to protect it with straw in winter. Water moderately but regularly on rather mild days.

Cultivation

The seeds of this summer radish can be sown between April and the beginning of August. They can also be grown from February onwards in a cool room on the windowsill or in a greenhouse. Loosen the soil correspondingly deeper for radish varieties with long, straight fruits. Sow two to three centimetres deep and keep a distance of about 10 to 15 centimetres. The individual rows should be about 30 centimetres apart. Directly underfeed the sowing with a little compost. It takes two to three weeks for germination, depending on the soil temperature.

Location

A full-sun, humus-rich location is ideal for radishes. It is excellent as a mixed crop between carrots, tomatoes and beans.

Care

If the bed has been enriched with compost before sowing, this is sufficient fertiliser for radish. On the other hand, nitrogenous fertiliser is not recommended for radish, as the radish will store nitrates. In addition, it is important to ensure sufficient and regular watering.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

You can grow dandelions indoors from March onwards. Scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press lightly. Cover the container with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright spot at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer). After two to four weeks, the first seedlings will appear. In May, the individual seedlings can then be planted outdoors, each 30 centimetres apart. Alternatively, you can sow dandelions directly outdoors between September and October of the previous year. To do this, plant the seeds and press them down lightly. Then cover them with a maximum of one centimetre of soil.

Location

Dandelions are quite undemanding when it comes to their location. Ideally, it should be sunny to semi-shady with a nutrient-rich and deep soil that encourages the formation of the plant's long taproot.

Care

Dandelions hardly need any care. Just make sure that the soil does not dry out completely.

In winter

Dandelions are hardy and do not need any special treatment.

Cultivation

You can grow dill indoors from March onwards. As the seed is a light germinator, sprinkle the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press the seeds only lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The first seedlings should appear after two to three weeks. The pre-pulled plants can be transplanted outdoors from May onwards. Direct sowing outdoors is possible from April. To do this, make fine seed grooves at a distance of 25 centimetres and scatter the seeds in them. Cover the seeds only very lightly with soil so that they are not blown away. Pre-grown plants can be planted ten centimetres apart with identical row spacing.

Location

Dill prefers a nutrient-rich, well-drained soil in a sunny location, ideally somewhat sheltered from the wind.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Fertilisation is not necessary.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

It is best to grow them indoors from the end of March. The seed is a light germinator, which means that it is sufficient to sprinkle the seed on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and press the seeds lightly. Cover the growing container with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The seeds will germinate after about two to four weeks. The pre-cultivated plants can then be planted outdoors from mid-May, each about 30 centimetres apart. Alternatively, chives can be sown directly in the bed from April onwards.

Location

Plant chives in a sunny location, ideally with a nutrient-rich, moist soil.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser. Also remove weeds regularly.

In winter

Chives are perennial and hardy down to -17° Celsius. The above-ground parts of the plant die completely in winter, but their surviving organs survive the winter in the soil and sprout again in spring from March.

Cultivation

Hops can be grown indoors from March onwards. To do this, place the seeds in the refrigerator for three weeks to stimulate germination. Then plant the seeds about one centimetre deep in moist coco substrate or organic vegetable soil. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This keeps the substrate ventilated and protects it from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright place at room temperature and keep the substrate moist but not wet. The seeds should germinate after about two weeks. From May onwards, the plants can be planted outside at a distance of about 80 centimetres.

Location

First of all, hops need a climbing aid that they can climb up. The location should also be sunny and have a deep, nutrient-rich soil. Before planting, it may be advisable to work compost into the soil.

Care

It is important to provide the hops with sufficient water at all times. Therefore, water regularly and abundantly, but without causing waterlogging. In addition, the hops can be regularly supplied with fertiliser during their main summer growth phase until flowering in August.

In winter

In autumn the hops retreat to ground level and the dead parts of the plant should then be removed. Instead, new shoots appear in very early spring.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants indoors from mid-May. Plant the seeds about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Water the substrate and keep it moist, avoiding waterlogging. Choose a bright spot at about 20° Celsius. The seeds should germinate after about a week. As soon as the young plants have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved to the bed from the end of June. Plant them about half a metre apart, so that the roots are covered with about one centimetre of soil, and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a heavy grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny to semi-shady spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil is also highly recommended. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Kale is a biennial plant, but is usually cultivated as an annual.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill from February onwards. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved outdoors from the end of March. Plant them at a distance of 30 centimetres from each other, so that the root base is covered with about one centimetre of soil, and underfeed the planting with compost.

Location

As a medium grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill from February onwards. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved outdoors from the end of March. Plant them at a distance of 30 centimetres from each other, so that the root base is covered with about one centimetre of soil, and underfeed the planting with compost.

Location

As a medium grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill from February onwards. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can be moved outdoors from the end of March. Plant them 40 centimetres apart, so that the roots are covered with about one centimetre of soil, and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a medium grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

The seeds are best grown in a sunny place indoors from the end of February. The seed is a light germinator. You should therefore scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and only press the seeds lightly. Cover the growing container with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The first seedlings should appear after three to four weeks. Plants grown indoors can be transplanted outdoors from mid-May, when no more night frost is expected. You should keep a distance of about 30 centimetres between the plants. Alternatively, the seeds can be sown directly in the bed from mid-May.

Location

The plant prefers a sunny location, ideally somewhat sheltered. The soil should be nutritious and well-drained.

Care

Especially with young plants, you should make sure that the soil is kept moist. However, waterlogging should be avoided at all costs. Older plants can cope with short dry periods, but they also appreciate a constant supply of water. You can hold back on fertilising. A little compost or organic herb fertiliser can be added at annual intervals. It is also advisable to keep the soil loose and weed-free.

In winter

In late autumn, lemon balm retracts its above-ground plant parts and leaves and flowers wither. These can then serve as protection in winter, which is why they do not need to be cut back. Lemon balm in pots, on the other hand, must be protected from frost in winter and should be kept in a dark, cold place. Also water moderately in winter on frost-free days.

Cultivation

Growing indoors is possible all year round, but is particularly suitable for the months of February and March. Spread the seeds on moist growing medium or herb soil, press them down a little and cover them with the medium. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright spot at a temperature of at least 15° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. Depending on the growing temperature, the first seedlings will appear after two to four weeks.

Location

Lemon grass prefers a sunny location. In summer, the plant can also stand well outdoors, protected from wind and rain.

Care

Always keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging (for example, by residual water in the saucer). During the annual growth phase in the summer months, liquid herb fertiliser can also be added to the water at intervals of three to four weeks. From the second year onwards, you can propagate your lemongrass by dividing it or give it to friends.

In winter

Lemon grass is not hardy and is best brought indoors in autumn, where it can be given a light and somewhat cooler location for its winter rest.

Cultivation

Lovage can be grown indoors towards the end of February. The seed is a light germinator, which is why you should sprinkle the seed on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and then press it down only lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. This way the seeds will germinate within two to three weeks. From the end of April, the plants can then be planted outside at a distance of about half a metre.

Location

Lovage thrives best in sunny places, but is also happy with partial shade. The soil should be rich in nutrients and have a good water retention capacity.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Loosen the soil regularly and remove any weeds. Outdoors, you can fertilise the plant once at the beginning of the year and once during the summer or when a yellowish discolouration of the leaves appears. If you keep the plant in a pot, it can be fertilised a little each month.

In winter

Lovage is a perennial and only reaches its full size after about four years. In winter, the above-ground part dies back completely, but sprouts again in spring.

Cultivation

Marjoram is best grown indoors from March onwards. The seed is a light germinator, which is why you should sprinkle the seed on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and then only press it down lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. This way the seeds will germinate within two to three weeks. The plants can then be moved outdoors from mid-May, when no more night frost is expected. Make sure that there is a distance of about 25 centimetres between each plant. Alternatively, marjoram can be sown directly in the bed from May onwards.

Location

The plant loves sun, warmth and ideally a sheltered spot in nutrient-rich, well-drained soil.

Care

Marjoram does not need a lot of water. Just make sure that the soil does not dry out completely. Do not fertilise at all or only lightly with compost or organic herb fertiliser. Loosen the soil from time to time and remove any weeds.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Milk thistle can be grown from the end of February. The seeds can be sown in small pots. The substrate used should not be too rich in nutrients. If the temperature does not fall below 18 degrees Celsius and regular moistening (no moisture!) is ensured, the seeds should germinate after about three weeks. As soon as April comes to an end, the individual plants can be planted outdoors. Keep a distance of about 40 centimetres between the plants.

Location

Milk thistle likes a sunny location. It does not have high demands on the nutrients in the soil. However, the soil should be well-drained.

Care

Milk thistle does not need much water. During long periods of drought and heat, however, make sure that the soil does not dry out completely.

In winter

Milk thistle is a biennial and can withstand temperatures as low as -7 degrees in winter. To be on the safe side, the plant can also be overwintered indoors. This is particularly useful if it has been planted in a pot.

Cultivation

Nettles can be sown directly outdoors from March onwards. All you need to do is press the seeds lightly into the soil, as nettles are light germinators. Water the soil carefully so as not to wash away the seeds and keep the soil moist but not wet. The seeds should germinate after one to two weeks. As soon as the first seedlings have developed, they can be spaced about 25 centimetres apart.

Location

Basically, the nettle is an undemanding plant. However, it prefers a semi-shady location with a nutrient-rich (preferably nitrogenous) and well-drained soil.

Care

Extensive care is not necessary for the nettle. Just make sure that the soil does not dry out, but avoid waterlogging.

In winter

The nettle is hardy without further treatment.

Cultivation

Oregano is best grown indoors from March onwards. As the seed is a light germinator, you should sprinkle the seed on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and only press down lightly. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The seeds will germinate after about three weeks. The pre-cultivated plants can then be transplanted outdoors from May onwards. Keep a distance of 25 centimetres between the plants. Alternatively, you can sow oregano directly in the bed from mid-May.

Location

Oregano thrives best in a sunny location. The soil should be low in nutrients, well-drained and dry. Oregano is therefore also a good plant for rock gardens.

Care

Oregano does not require any special care in the form of additional nutrients or similar. Even watering the plant is hardly necessary.

In winter

Cover the oregano with brushwood in winter as a precaution. In spring, the plant should be cut back to a hand's breadth above the ground, as it tends to become woody.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds in March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds in March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds in March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

To ensure that the plant already bears in the first year, it is recommended to grow the seeds in March. Let the seeds pre-swell in room-warm water for 24 hours to increase germination and then place them half a centimetre to one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Keep the growing medium moist but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it daily with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the substrate from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the substrate. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 22° and 30° Celsius. The first seeds should germinate after three to ten days. Now remove the cover and keep the plants in as much light as possible (but no blazing midday sun) and a little cooler, so that the young plants do not go to seed. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the little plants can be pricked out (singled out) into small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil until the first leaf appears. Please take care not to damage the still fine roots and water the fresh soil lightly. In the coming weeks, the plants will then be gradually transferred to larger and larger pots, once they have rooted their previous pot well.

Location

As soon as it gets a little warmer, the plants can go outside during the day at a minimum of 5° Celsius to harden off and get used to the sun. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted to a sunny location in the garden bed or in a container.

Care

Chilli and pepper plants like it warm and humid, but not wet. Water only when the top layer of soil has dried out and occasionally spray plants kept indoors from above. Unlike tomato plants, chillies and peppers do not need to have their side shoots removed. Also, contrary to popular belief, breaking off the first flower (king flower) has no influence on the development of the plant. If the plant is grown in good organic vegetable soil, the first fertilisation with organic fertiliser is only necessary when the first buds appear.

In winter

For overwintering, the plant can be placed in a somewhat darker and cooler location at 10° Celsius and then watered accordingly less. In bright and warm locations, continue to care for the plant as before and prune it for bushy growth next year.

Cultivation

Parsley can be sown directly outdoors (preferably in a bed prepared with compost) from April. It can be helpful to soak the seeds in room-warm water overnight before sowing. For sowing, create seed furrows with a depth of about two centimetres at a distance of 25 centimetres, in which you sow the seeds. Then cover the seed furrows with soil, which you then water. In April, it is advisable to protect the seeds from the cold with fleece during the three to four weeks of germination. They should also be kept moist and kept free of weeds. As soon as the seedlings have reached a height of at least five centimetres, they can be separated at a distance of five to ten centimetres. Parsley can also be grown in pots indoors from February onwards.

Location

Parsley thrives in sunny to semi-shady places. The soil should be humus-rich, nutritious and well-drained.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Loosen the soil regularly and remove any weeds.

In winter

Parsley is actually biennial, but should not be harvested after flowering in the second year. Therefore, annual reseeding is recommended.

Cultivation

Parsley can be sown directly outdoors (preferably in a bed prepared with compost) from April. It can be helpful to soak the seeds in room-warm water overnight before sowing. For sowing, create seed furrows with a depth of about two centimetres at a distance of 25 centimetres, in which you sow the seeds. Then cover the seed furrows with soil, which you then water. In April, it is advisable to protect the seeds from the cold with fleece during the three to four weeks of germination. They should also be kept moist and kept free of weeds. As soon as the seedlings have reached a height of at least five centimetres, they can be separated at a distance of five to ten centimetres. Parsley can also be grown in pots indoors from February onwards.

Location

Parsley thrives in sunny to semi-shady places. The soil should be humus-rich, nutritious and well-drained.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Loosen the soil regularly and remove any weeds.

In winter

Parsley is actually biennial, but should not be harvested after flowering in the second year. Therefore, annual reseeding is recommended.

Cultivation

In principle, peas can be planted directly outdoors as soon as the soil temperature is around eight degrees (approx. beginning of April). In very harsh climates, however, they can also be grown two weeks before planting. For example, two seeds can be planted in a coco pot. In the bed, the seeds or seedlings can then be planted about five centimetres apart. The sowing depth of the seeds should also be five centimetres. If there are several rows, they should also be 30 centimetres apart.

Location

Both sunny and rather shady locations are suitable for peas. In addition, peas do not have very high demands on the nutrients in the soil. If possible, however, a humus-rich soil is preferable. The soil should also not be too wet, otherwise there is a risk that the seeds will rot.

Care

As the pea is a climbing plant, it can be provided with a climbing aid. However, this is not absolutely necessary. At first, the plants should only be watered moderately. Only when the flowers are formed and the pods develop is it desirable to keep the soil constantly moist. This favours a good yield.

In winter

Peas are annuals and are resown the following year.

Cultivation

You can sow the seeds outdoors from mid-May, but you will get a richer harvest with plants grown on the windowsill from mid-March. Place only one or two seeds at a time in a larger pot about one centimetre deep in moist growing soil, as pumpkins grow expansively. Stretch cling film over the seed pot and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. Germination now usually takes two weeks. After another month, the seedlings can be transferred to larger pots or to the garden. It usually takes two months from germination to flowering and another month until fruiting.

Location

A sunny location is ideal.

Care

Pumpkins love a nutritious soil and therefore grow well in soil enriched with compost. In normal garden soil, you should feed the plant regularly with liquid fertiliser. Make sure to water regularly and abundantly. To protect the fruits from rotting, you should place a board under the plant so that the pumpkins do not lie directly on the ground. Large leaves can be cut off at the end of the growing season to allow the plant all the strength it needs to form the fruit. Pumpkins are popular with slugs; a slug fence is therefore recommended.

In winter

Sow new seeds the following year.

Cultivation

You can sow the seeds outdoors from mid-May, but you will get a richer harvest with plants grown on the windowsill from mid-March. Place only one or two seeds at a time in a larger pot about one centimetre deep in moist growing soil, as pumpkins grow expansively. Stretch cling film over the seed pot and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. Germination now usually takes two weeks. After another month, the seedlings can be transferred to larger pots or to the garden. It usually takes two months from germination to flowering and another month until fruiting.

Location

A sunny location is ideal.

Care

Pumpkins love a nutritious soil and therefore grow well in soil enriched with compost. In normal garden soil, you should feed the plant regularly with liquid fertiliser. Make sure to water regularly and abundantly. To protect the fruits from rotting, you should place a board under the plant so that the pumpkins do not lie directly on the ground. Large leaves can be cut off at the end of the growing season to allow the plant all the strength it needs to form the fruit. Pumpkins are popular with slugs; a slug fence is therefore recommended.

In winter

Sow new seeds the following year.

Cultivation

You can sow the seeds outdoors from mid-May, but you will get a richer harvest with plants grown on the windowsill from mid-March. Place only one or two seeds at a time in a larger pot about one centimetre deep in moist growing soil, as pumpkins grow expansively. Stretch cling film over the seed pot and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. Germination now usually takes two weeks. After another month, the seedlings can be transferred to larger pots or to the garden. It usually takes two months from germination to flowering and another month until fruiting.

Location

A sunny location is ideal.

Care

Pumpkins love a nutritious soil and therefore grow well in soil enriched with compost. In normal garden soil, you should feed the plant regularly with liquid fertiliser. Make sure to water regularly and abundantly. To protect the fruits from rotting, you should place a board under the plant so that the pumpkins do not lie directly on the ground. Large leaves can be cut off at the end of the growing season to allow the plant all the strength it needs to form the fruit. Pumpkins are popular with slugs; a slug fence is therefore recommended.

In winter

Sow new seeds the following year.

Cultivation

You can sow the seeds outdoors from mid-May, but you will get a richer harvest with plants grown on the windowsill from mid-March. Place only one or two seeds at a time in a larger pot about one centimetre deep in moist growing soil, as pumpkins grow expansively. Stretch cling film over the seed pot and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. Germination now usually takes two weeks. After another month, the seedlings can be transferred to larger pots or to the garden. It usually takes two months from germination to flowering and another month until fruiting.

Location

A sunny location is ideal.

Care

Pumpkins love a nutritious soil and therefore grow well in soil enriched with compost. In normal garden soil, you should feed the plant regularly with liquid fertiliser. Make sure to water regularly and abundantly. To protect the fruits from rotting, you should place a board under the plant so that the pumpkins do not lie directly on the ground. Large leaves can be cut off at the end of the growing season to allow the plant all the strength it needs to form the fruit. Pumpkins are popular with slugs; a slug fence is therefore recommended.

In winter

Sow new seeds the following year.

Cultivation

Sow staggered about every four weeks to harvest from April to October. The last radishes can still be sown outdoors until the beginning of September. As soon as the soil is frost-free, you can sow radishes at temperatures from about 10° C onwards. Sow in one-centimetre-deep, shallow furrows that you have previously lined with a little compost and keep a distance of five centimetres between the seeds and a row spacing of ten centimetres. If the seeds are sown too densely, only abundant leaves will develop and no storage tubers. It takes about four to eight weeks from sowing to harvesting. Sow again and again. This way you will have crisp garden radishes throughout the garden season. You can also grow radishes in balcony boxes. Fill the window box with organic vegetable soil and sow as for outdoor sowing.

Location

Radishes need a lot of light and prefer wind-protected locations. At least three to four hours of sun a day are ideal.

Care

Because of the short cultivation period, no special care is required. However, due to their rapid growth, radishes should be watered daily, especially during dry and hot periods. Otherwise the tubers can become too sharp and woody. With good fertilisation of the previous crop and loosening of the soil, further fertilisation is not necessary.

In winter

Unfortunately, there are no radishes in winter.

Cultivation

Sow staggered about every four weeks to harvest from April to October. The last radishes can still be sown outdoors until the beginning of September. As soon as the soil is frost-free, you can sow radishes at temperatures from about 10° C onwards. Sow in one-centimetre-deep, shallow furrows that you have previously lined with a little compost and keep a distance of five centimetres between the seeds and a row spacing of ten centimetres. If the seeds are sown too densely, only abundant leaves will develop and no storage tubers. It takes about four to eight weeks from sowing to harvesting. Sow again and again. This way you will have crisp garden radishes throughout the garden season. You can also grow radishes in balcony boxes. Fill the window box with organic vegetable soil and sow as for outdoor sowing.

Location

Radishes need a lot of light and prefer wind-protected locations. At least three to four hours of sun a day are ideal.

Care

Because of the short cultivation period, no special care is required. However, due to their rapid growth, radishes should be watered daily, especially during dry and hot periods. Otherwise the tubers can become too sharp and woody. With good fertilisation of the previous crop and loosening of the soil, further fertilisation is not necessary.

In winter

Unfortunately, there are no radishes in winter.

Cultivation

Sow staggered about every four weeks to harvest from April to October. The last radishes can still be sown outdoors until the beginning of September. As soon as the soil is frost-free, you can sow radishes at temperatures from about 10° C onwards. Sow in one-centimetre-deep, shallow furrows that you have previously lined with a little compost and keep a distance of five centimetres between the seeds and a row spacing of ten centimetres. If the seeds are sown too densely, only abundant leaves will develop and no storage tubers. It takes about four to eight weeks from sowing to harvesting. Sow again and again. This way you will have crisp garden radishes throughout the garden season. You can also grow radishes in balcony boxes. Fill the window box with organic vegetable soil and sow as for outdoor sowing.

Location

Radishes need a lot of light and prefer wind-protected locations. At least three to four hours of sun a day are ideal.

Care

Because of the short cultivation period, no special care is required. However, due to their rapid growth, radishes should be watered daily, especially during dry and hot periods. Otherwise the tubers can become too sharp and woody. With good fertilisation of the previous crop and loosening of the soil, further fertilisation is not necessary.

In winter

Unfortunately, there are no radishes in winter.

Cultivation

You can grow the plants in pots on a sunny windowsill from April onwards. Place three seeds per planting hole about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. After germination, leave only the strongest seedling. It takes four to six weeks from sowing to planting. The ideal germination temperature is 15 to 20 degrees Celsius. As soon as the seedlings have rooted well in the soil, they can move outdoors from mid-May. Plant them 50 centimetres apart so that the root base is covered with about one centimetre of soil and feed the planting with compost.

Location

As a heavy grower, the plant thrives best in deep, nutrient-rich soil with good water retention capacity in a sunny spot in the vegetable patch.

Care

The plant needs regular water and nutrients. Water generously, especially on hot days, but avoid waterlogging. Regular removal of weeds and loosening of the surrounding soil will thank the plants with a higher yield and aroma. Feed the plants regularly with organic vegetable fertiliser after planting and until about two to three weeks before harvest.

In winter

Sowing should be done annually.

Cultivation

The seeds are best grown in a sunny place indoors from mid-February. The seed is a light germinator, which is why it is sufficient to sprinkle the seed on moist coconut substrate or organic herb soil and press it down lightly. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at 20 to 25° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. As the germination time of rosemary varies greatly, the first seedlings may appear after two to five weeks. The pre-pulled plants can be transplanted outdoors from mid-May, when no more night frost is expected. They should be planted at a distance of about 35 centimetres from each other.

Location

The plant loves sun, warmth and a sheltered spot to develop its full aroma. The soil should be lean and well-drained.

Care

Due to its Mediterranean origin, rosemary can cope with drought to a certain extent. However, make sure that the soil does not dry out completely. You should avoid waterlogging at all costs, as this quickly leads to root rot. Further nutrient supply through fertilising is not necessary.

In winter

Rosemary is not completely hardy. The safest and optimal place for the necessary winter dormancy is a bright and cool overwintering indoors at 5° to 8° Celsius. Water only enough so that the root ball does not dry out. For planted specimens, it is advisable to cover the plants with brushwood, straw or fleece.

Cultivation

It is best to grow sage indoors from March onwards. Since sage is a light germinator, scatter the seeds on moist coco substrate or organic herbal soil and press the seeds only lightly. Cover the propagator with transparent film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The seeds should germinate within two to three weeks. The plants grown in this way can be moved outdoors from May onwards, when no more night frost is expected. Make sure that there is a distance of about 35 centimetres between the individual plants.

Location

Plant sage in a full sun location, ideally somewhat sheltered from the wind. The soil can be lean and well-drained.

Care

Sage is a fairly undemanding plant, so fertilising is not necessary. Lush watering is not usually necessary either. Just make sure that the soil does not dry out too much. Young plants are kept in shape by cutting back shoots. Older plants can be pruned back in spring.

In winter

Sage is hardy, but should always be protected a little with brushwood in case of frost.

Cultivation

It is best to grow them indoors from March onwards. The seed is a light germinator, which is why you should sprinkle the seed on moist coconut substrate or organic herb soil and only press the seeds down lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright spot at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The first seedlings will appear after two to three weeks. Plants grown in this way can be moved outdoors from the end of April. Keep a distance of 30 centimetres between the seedlings. Alternatively, sorrel can be sown directly in the bed in April.

Location

Plant sorrel in a sunny to semi-shady location. The soil should be nutrient-rich, deep and have a good water retention capacity.

Care

Always keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. Water as soon as the top layer of soil has dried out. Fertilise occasionally with organic herb fertiliser. If you want to cut back sorrel, make sure to leave the central leaves.

In winter

Sorrel is perennial and hardy.

Cultivation

You can plant the spinach directly in the bed from March. The soil should ideally be loosened for this purpose, and a little compost can also be worked in. Make seed furrows for sowing, which should be about two to three centimetres deep. Then sow the seeds in the grooves and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 25 centimetres between individual rows. If the cold weather persists in spring, it is also advisable to cover the planting site with fleece.

Location

Spinach can be planted in a sunny location or in partial shade. The soil should ideally be humus-rich and deep enough to allow the spinach to develop roots up to 30 centimetres long.

Care

If the soil has been supplied with nutrients before sowing, further fertilisation is not necessary. If in doubt, such fertilisation can even lead to an increased nitrate content in the leaves. First and foremost, it is important to provide the spinach with sufficient water throughout. In addition, the plant will be happy if the soil is regularly loosened and weeds are removed.

In winter

Spinach does not need any protection in winter. That is when it is actually harvested.

Cultivation

You can plant the spinach directly in the bed from mid-September. The soil should ideally be loosened for this purpose, and a little compost can also be worked in. Make seed furrows for sowing, which should be about two to three centimetres deep. Then sow the seeds in the grooves and cover them with soil. Keep a distance of about 25 centimetres between individual rows.

Location

Spinach can be planted in a sunny location or in partial shade. The soil should ideally be humus-rich and deep enough to allow the spinach to develop roots up to 30 centimetres long.

Care

If the soil has been supplied with nutrients before sowing, further fertilisation is not necessary. If in doubt, such fertilisation can even lead to an increased nitrate content in the leaves. First and foremost, it is important to provide the spinach with sufficient water throughout. In addition, the plant will be happy if the soil is regularly loosened and weeds are removed.

In winter

Spinach does not need any protection in winter. That is when it is actually harvested.

Cultivation

You can grow spring onions indoors from February onwards. Plant the seeds about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Water the seeds carefully and place them in a bright place at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the seeds moist, but avoid waterlogging. The first seedlings will appear after two to three weeks. From April onwards, you can transplant the young plants outdoors at intervals of five to ten centimetres.

Location

It is best to plant spring onions in a sunny location that is slightly sheltered. The soil should be humus-rich and loose.

Care

Spring onions are relatively hardy, so you should just make sure that the soil does not dry out. Fertilise sparingly, if at all, as a high nutrient supply leads to a bland taste.

In winter

For an even earlier harvest, you can sow spring onions as early as autumn. Spring onions have no problem with frost and snow. By spring, the onion plants can start growing directly and thus reach harvest size more quickly.

Cultivation

You can grow spring onions indoors from February onwards. Plant the seeds about one centimetre deep in coconut fibre substrate or organic vegetable soil. Water the seeds carefully and place them in a bright place at 15 to 20° Celsius. Keep the seeds moist, but avoid waterlogging. The first seedlings will appear after two to three weeks. From April onwards, you can transplant the young plants outdoors at intervals of five to ten centimetres.

Location

It is best to plant spring onions in a sunny location that is slightly sheltered. The soil should be humus-rich and loose.

Care

Spring onions are relatively hardy, so you should just make sure that the soil does not dry out. Fertilise sparingly, if at all, as a high nutrient supply leads to a bland taste.

In winter

For an even earlier harvest, you can sow spring onions as early as autumn. Spring onions have no problem with frost and snow. By spring, the onion plants can start growing directly and thus reach harvest size more quickly.

Cultivation

St. John's wort can be grown indoors from March onwards. As it is a cold germinator, you should first place the seeds in the normal refrigerator area for six weeks (stratify) and then leave them to pre-swell overnight in room-warm water. Then scatter the seeds on moist growing medium and cover them only very slightly with the medium. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright place at about 20° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The first seedlings should appear after two to four weeks. As soon as the seedlings have reached a height of ten centimetres, they can be planted outdoors at a distance of about 35 centimetres.

Location

Plant your St. John's wort in a sunny location in a humus-rich and well-drained soil.

Care

St. John's wort is comparatively easy to care for, so all you need to do is water the plant from time to time. Especially during long periods of heat or drought, make sure that the soil does not dry out.

In winter

St. John's wort hibernates with a widely branched rootstock that sprouts again in spring. Special protection is not necessary.

Cultivation

Thyme is best grown indoors from March onwards. As the seed is a light germinator, you should sprinkle the seed on moist coco substrate or organic herb soil and only press down lightly. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Remove the foil for 2 hours every two to three days. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. This way the seeds will germinate after a good two weeks. The pre-pulled plants can then be transplanted outdoors from mid-May. Keep a distance of about 30 centimetres between the plants. Alternatively, thyme can be sown directly in the bed from mid-April.

Location

Plant thyme in a sunny location. The soil should be dry and well-drained and not too rich in nutrients.

Care

Due to its Mediterranean origin, thyme can cope with drought to a certain extent. However, make sure that the soil does not dry out completely. However, you should avoid waterlogging at all costs. Further nutrient supply through fertilising is not necessary.

In winter

In winter, the roots of the plant should be protected with a layer of brushwood, for example. The fresh shoots will sprout again from the woody areas the following year. We recommend pruning the plant vigorously down to the woody parts in spring. This encourages the sprouting of tender new shoots.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Grow your tomatoes from mid-March in a bright and warm room. Scatter the flat seeds at a distance of two centimetres on moist coco substrate or BIO vegetable soil and cover the seeds only lightly. Keep the growing medium moist, but not wet, preferably by re-wetting it with a spray bottle. Cover the propagator with cling film and make holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the growing medium. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place with a temperature between 20° and 24° Celsius. After one to two weeks the first seedlings should appear. Remove the cover and keep the plants a little cooler with plenty of light without blazing midday sun. As soon as the second pair of leaves develops, the young plantlets can be pricked out (singled out) until the first leaf appears in small 10 cm pots with holes in the bottom and organic vegetable soil. From a height of ten centimetres, the seedlings need a stick for support. After the Ice Saints in mid-May, the plants can be transplanted into the garden bed or into containers at a distance of 75 centimetres in a fully sunny location.

Location

A sunny spot protected from rain and wind is ideal.

Care

Tomatoes need strong support sticks or tomato spirals. Water evenly, but avoid waterlogging. Regularly remove (prune) all axillary shoots that form between the trunk and the base of the branch. As the root system develops vigorously at first, visible growth is slow in the first few weeks. Fertilise four and eight weeks after planting with an organic vegetable fertiliser.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Valerian can be grown indoors from mid-March. As this is a light germinator, the seeds should only be lightly pressed onto the herb or growing soil. Carefully moisten the substrate and cover the propagator with transparent film with holes in it. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright place at room temperature. Keep the soil surface moist (e.g. with a water sprayer), but not wet. The first seedlings will appear after about three weeks. From mid-May onwards, the seedlings can then be planted outdoors at a distance of about 35 centimetres each. Alternatively, valerian can be sown directly in the bed from May onwards.

Location

Ideally, plant valerian in a sunny location. Otherwise a semi-shady spot will suffice. The soil should be nutritious and moist.

Care

Valerian is uncomplicated and requires no special care. Only the soil should always be kept slightly moist, which is especially important during hot and dry periods.

In winter

Valerian is frost-resistant without special protection.

Cultivation

Since melons are not accustomed to our native climate, they need to be grown in advance, otherwise they would be late to form their fruits. To do this, it is recommended to plant three seeds together two centimeters deep into the soil. In the course, the soil should then be kept moist at all times. After about 10 days, the first cotyledons should form above the soil and the first tender roots below the soil. After a few weeks, the two weaker plantlets can then be removed in order to transplant the best-formed specimen. However, you should wait until the end of May to be safe from frost. This would immediately destroy the plants. Even temperatures below 12 degrees can stall the growth of melons.

Location

For growth melons need a lot of light. However, a full sun location is not yet recommended, especially for young plants. Also, make sure to give the individual plants plenty of space (distance of about one meter).

Care

Despite its name, watermelons do not require excessive watering. The soil should be kept moist at all times, but waterlogging should be avoided at all costs to prevent the roots from rotting. Since melons are climbing plants, it may be advisable to use climbing aids. In addition, for the sake of size and taste should not grow more than six fruits per side shoot. To prevent mold, you should also make sure that the fruits do not have direct contact with moist soil. Fertilize the melons about every two weeks.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Sow on the windowsill only from mid-April. If you start sowing too early, the plants will grow too big too soon. Use pots with a minimum diameter of 9 cm and always plant two seeds about 2 cm deep in one pot. Cover the pot with cling film and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The seeds will germinate after about one to two weeks. Remove the weaker of the two seedlings later. The seedlings should not be planted out until after the Ice Saints in May. Now it would also be possible to sow them directly outdoors. It takes about 6 to 8 weeks until the first courgettes are ready for harvesting.

Location

The plants love a sunny, wind-protected location with sufficient space of about one square metre all around.

Care

Courgettes are highly nutritious and need nutrients. A supply of compost or organic vegetable fertiliser is ideal. You should regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds. A layer of mulch has a good effect on the soil and protects fruit lying on the ground from moisture and rotting. The plants need regular watering. Do not water the leaves to avoid fungal attack.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Sow on the windowsill only from mid-April. If you start sowing too early, the plants will grow too big too soon. Use pots with a minimum diameter of 9 cm and always plant two seeds about 2 cm deep in one pot. Cover the pot with cling film and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The seeds will germinate after about one to two weeks. Remove the weaker of the two seedlings later. The seedlings should not be planted out until after the Ice Saints in May. Now it would also be possible to sow them directly outdoors. It takes about 6 to 8 weeks until the first courgettes are ready for harvesting.

Location

The plants love a sunny, wind-protected location with sufficient space of about one square metre all around.

Care

Courgettes are highly nutritious and need nutrients. A supply of compost or organic vegetable fertiliser is ideal. You should regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds. A layer of mulch has a good effect on the soil and protects fruit lying on the ground from moisture and rotting. The plants need regular watering. Do not water the leaves to avoid fungal attack.

In winter

Sow again the following year.

Cultivation

Sow on the windowsill only from mid-April. If you start sowing too early, the plants will grow too big too soon. Use pots with a minimum diameter of 9 cm and always plant two seeds about 2 cm deep in one pot. Cover the pot with cling film and poke a few holes in the cling film. This protects the soil from drying out. Every two to three days you should remove the foil for 2 hours. This prevents mould from forming on the soil. Place the propagator in a bright and warm place at about 20° Celsius and keep the soil moist, but not wet. The seeds will germinate after about one to two weeks. Remove the weaker of the two seedlings later. The seedlings should not be planted out until after the Ice Saints in May. Now it would also be possible to sow them directly outdoors. It takes about 6 to 8 weeks until the first courgettes are ready for harvesting.

Location

The plants love a sunny, wind-protected location with sufficient space of about one square metre all around.

Care

Courgettes are highly nutritious and need nutrients. A supply of compost or organic vegetable fertiliser is ideal. You should regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds. A layer of mulch has a good effect on the soil and protects fruit lying on the ground from moisture and rotting. The plants need regular watering. Do not water the leaves to avoid fungal attack.

In winter

Sow again the following year.